Fashion review: Grassroot

Last week, the Handloom and Textile Day at the Winter/Festive 2015 edition of the Lakme Fashion Week concluded with the launch of Anita Dongre Grassroot. Known for decorative luxury prêt and bridal wear, Dongre is not among the names you would think of if you covet crafts-inspired fashion. So while Grassroot has been part of her brand, the way it has been positioned now—independently —attempts to recast that perception.

Using Ahir embroidery from Gujarat, Ikat from Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh, Warli patterns from the folk art of Maharashtra and hand-block prints on matka silk from Bhagalpur, Dongre’s collection had two instant appeal points. It was simple, a hallmark of painstaking back-end processes, quality and craftsmanship. Two, it was truly global—easy, stylish silhouettes, flared trousers in linen with cropped anti-fit blouses, finely constructed jackets with long dresses that had one-side slits, asymmetrical loose tunics paired with wide bottoms, dresses, long kurtasand hand-embroidered gowns. All paired with tan lace-up platform shoes and ethno-modern jewellery with necklaces and cuffs. Not a stitch of bling. The colours went from deep maroons to subtle reds, black and white, ochre and leaf green.

There was a fluidity in the entire production: from the set, which had a large banyan tree, to the poetic introduction to Grassroot’s cruelty-free and sustainable fashion by actor Dia Mirza, to the clothes themselves. A sentence from Dongre’s press release, “the longest ramp—from the heart of India’s villages to the ramp at LFW”, connects with the fashion industry’s current road map—it wants to search for and nurture its roots.

(Photo:long evening dresses)

Click here for enlargeOver the past 18 months, the designer has worked closely with the non-profit Self Employed Women’s Association (Sewa) in Lucknow and the Sewa Trade Facilitation Centre in Gujarat. So when two-dozen-odd women artisans in Kutchi costumes walked the ramp to take a bow, followed by Dongre and Mirza, they got a standing ovation. It may be a populist way to evoke a response, but it seems to work.

After watching this collection, seeing its artistically shot brochure and visiting Dongre’s new store, Grassroot, at Khar, Mumbai, what stands out is the investment and thought that has gone into packaging a viable plan. The core idea itself is not new, and, regardless of the store’s ethnic decor, contemporary ware, and black and white photographs, Grassroot must eventually be tested against customer preferences, commercial success and pricing. All this while sticking to its promise of providing work to craftspeople (see “This Is Slow Fashion”).

But design is first and foremost a solution. Fashion needs aesthetic solutions too, apart from wearability and affordability. For customers, whether a label achieves this by sustaining craft skills or providing livelihoods is a secondary consideration.

In that context it is too early to predict if Grassroot will prove to be a fashion solution. Even if it does decode what Dongre calls our “craftistory”.Read more at:evening dresses plus size uk